Brown Sugar

Just got back from Brown Sugar in west Oakland- an already established hot spot. This particular hot spot John is uncommonly unfriendly toward, as he considers it a signpost of gentrification in the surrounding neighborhood, but I drag him with me anyway, cause it's freaking tasty. The trick is never to go on a Saturday or Sunday- it gets packed. Also, don't go when you're starving to death cause even on weekdays you're likely to have a 20 min wait, which puts eating time at about an hour after arrival (then imposing the 'I'm starving to death' panic, making you scarf your food while burning your mouth on lava-hot cheese).

I’ve already been there a few times, and have settled into a favorite meal: I usually order a waffle (at a whopping $8) and a side of mac and cheese. Their waffles are definitely a thing to behold- they're made with some kind of corn meal which gives them a light, crispy texture normally suited to fancy desserts. Then they throw a slat of brown sugar butter on the top, and offer a side of apple cider syrup. That's right, APPLE. CIDER. SYRUP. The result is a magical sweet treat that can't really be replicated elsewhere. I think it's worth the 8 bucks, but not everyone is interested in blowing 8 bucks on something that disappears in a few minutes...

The mac and cheese is done in closer-to-southern-style, without really going there. I'm comparing it in my mind to my South Carolina, favorite southern-style cook Julie, whose mac and cheese makes me feel like I'm melting with joy; Brown Sugar's mac and cheese has a lighter cheese sauce, just this side of custard. They lack the mini-jackpots of cheese patches but, much to my delight, they keep to the tradition of bread crumb topping- it's just good!

All in all, it feels like a euro-take on southern cooking- like a tasty, but lighter and less wholely indulgent version of soul food. They offer a chicken and waffle meal (that I've never had) and their pulled pork is a keeper (but probably doesn't beat Phat Matt's). I'd skip their cheddar cheese scallion and bacon biscuits, they sound crazy good but don't really deliver. Also, I've only had pleasant experiences with the staff, and given how overwhelmed they must be, I'd say that goes a long way.

Look, if you haven't had this waffle, and you're located in San Francisco, I promise it's worth the pilgrimage of crossing the bridge.

Frankie's

Technically titled and subtitled "Frankie's: Bohemian Cafe". I stumbled onto this place while lost in a random neighborhood in San Francisco (which I later discovered was called western addition? is that a real neighborhood?) and was reaching the brink of fussiness. It was cozy inside, had hand-painted reproductions of famous artworks, and a funny straw roof to a tiki bar, which a handful of men seemed to be making decent use of.

For whatever reason I was feeling especially adventurous- maybe from roaming the streets aimlessly looking for an eatery, maybe from the jovial manner of the man I only assumed was Frankie himself. When presented with the menu, I decided to take what I perceived to be a huge gamble. The main fare available was a variety of burgers, and a variety of something called "Brambory". Someone once told me it's really important to have a homemade veggie-burger, instead of just a freezer patty, which is exactly what John got. I however, felt bold enough to experience the "Bohemian Brambory".

It came out looking like upchucked patty melt. It was a shredded potato, mushroom, zucchini, grilled onion, mozzarella scramble, topped with grilled shrimp and BBQ sauce. I had one of those "jesus christ I'm about to punch myself in the stomach with food" moments, took a breath, and dug in. It was heavenly. Amazing. The potatoes were slightly crisped and still firm without being greasy, all the veggies seemed fresh and cooked to that difficult-to-distinguish moment of cooking perfection; the mozzarella was a perfect addition. I'm not even a big shrimp girl, but this was exactly right. I can't believe how ugly and delicious it is.

As for the aftermath, there was hardly any- I was aware of a food coma, but one of satisfaction, not of over-indulgence. It wasn't at all greasy the way I was expecting it to be, and the portion was huge, giving me next-day-lunch enjoyment. Basically, I've been obsessing about it in my head, wondering when is the next time I'll get to eat it.

My advice, don't be a weanie, try the brambory, it's completely worth the initial shock.

Go Brambory or go home!